Name: Peter Bokas

Job: Founder and shoemaker

Where: Squire Shoes

Why is it important?

I source the leathers for our brand; we use a lot of interesting patterns. I also have a say on the last, which is the most essential tool in shoemaking. The last is a foot mould which determines the design and shape of a shoe. The last needs to represent the anatomy of a foot, so it's comfortable and fashionable. We need one for the left and one for the right, and one in every size.

Once you have a last you can make different patterns with it.

It's only when you want to alter the toe shape or heel that you need to design another shoe last.

We place utmost value on it; if the last is wrong, the shoe won't fit. The Australian foot is probably the broadest foot in the world — so we allow extra room in the last for that. There are about 35 measurements that go into a last; the most important is the volume or broadness of the last. If you allow quite a bit of space there, you'll get a nice comfortable fit. We look at a last up to 30 times; it's only through persistent observation we can determine if the shoe will come out nicely or not. After that, we make a mock up in cheaper leather, then we'll do about five or six fittings before we're satisfied.

What do your colleagues think?

Every shoe needs a last, whether it's made by machine or hand. We believe that the last is the be all and end all of shoemaking.

Unusual moment?

When we need to do a shape and I'm not available I've got a mould of my own foot, so sometimes we use that. I've got an average foot with an instep; it's usually a very good guide.

How much does it cost?

Up to $2000. We've got two last makers we use.